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If you search for the top things to do in Valletta, the capital of Malta, you’ll find St John Cathedral at the top of the list in any guide. You’ll also find it by the name of St John’s Co-Cathedral or the Cathedral of St John The Baptist.
I don’t necessarily visit every church that comes my way when I explore a city, but this is one that you shouldn’t miss, and I’ll tell you why further on.
St John’s Co-Cathedral in Malta
First of all, St John’s is a Co-Cathedral because it shares the seat of Malta’s Archbishop with The Cathedral of St Paul in Mdina, the former Maltese capital.
A Little History
St John’s Cathedral was commissioned by the knights of the Order of St John in the 16th century. On the outside, its most striking feature is the bell tower. It hosts three clocks, each one showing a different thing: the time, the day of the week, and the date.
Entering from the simple, Maltese limestone exterior, the ornate interior comes as a complete surprise. Once a simply decorated cathedral, it has today one of the most striking interiors. Bombings affected the cathedral during WW2, so some reconstruction was necessary afterward.
The Baroque interior is the work of Mattia Preti, a Calabrian artist.
It’s impossible to absorb all the details inside the cathedral. Carved stone walls, the painted vaulted ceiling depicting St John the Baptist scenes, and a grand altar will all catch your eye.
However, the attraction that draws the crowd to St John Cathedral in Malta is Caravaggio’s Beheading of St John the Baptist painting.
Caravaggio at St John’s Cathedral
Michelangelo Merisi, the Italian painter known as Caravaggio, was convicted for murder in Italy and fled to hide on the tiny Malta island. While there, St John’s Order hired him to create two paintings for the cathedral. They are both still in the Oratory of St John’s Co-Cathedral.
The largest represents The Beheading of St John the Baptist. It’s the only painting having Caravaggio’s signature. The painter signed his work in St John’s spilling blood.
The other Caravaggio hanging in the Oratory is Saint Jerome Writing. Caravaggio had already painted another canvas on the same subject, you can see it in the Borghese Gallery in Rome.
The Marble Floor
The feature I was most impressed with inside St John Cathedral in Malta was the marble floor. Even though Caravaggio’s work is nothing short of impressive, I haven’t seen this type of marble work before.
The entire cathedral’s floor is covered in tombstones. 400 Knights of the Order are lying here. Their resting places are covered with marble artwork representing skeletons and other suggestive imagery.
For me, the flooring was more interesting than the rich gold leaf adornings of the walls and ceilings.
Useful info
- Address: Visitors entrance in on Triq Ir-Repubblika, Valletta
- Adult tickets are 15€
- The entrance fee includes an audio guide which will provide a lot of details about the cathedral and the works of art displayed.
- Opening hours: Monday to Friday 9:30 AM- 4:30 PM Saturday 9:30 AM 12:30PM. Closed on Sundays.
- Necessary time – we spent about one hour inside, but that’s the minimum amount of time. Allow more if you really want to observe all the details.
- As with any religious place, dress appropriately, covering your knees and shoulders. Also, thin heels are prohibited inside because they could damage the marble floor.
- There are toilets available inside the cathedral, but no wardrobe or lockers. If you bring a backpack, you should wear it in your hand or in front to prevent damaging any decorations on the walls.
Final thoughts
Even if you have a short time in Valletta, St John’s Cathedral is one of the attractions you shouldn’t miss in Malta.
A good idea for a short visit is to book this guided tour that includes both the cathedral and the Malta experience.
Disclosure
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This cathedral is just stunning! It is so ornate and then those marble floors, wow!
St. John’s Cathedral is very impressive. It’s worth the price of admission. I was impressed with the floor murals as well. The detail work throughout the cathedral is breathtaking!
Four hundred dead knights under the floor, blimey! What a beautiful interior though, and amazing they kept the original Caravaggios. I missed out on the cathedral during my visit to Malta, so might have to return now.
Any excuse is good for a trip back. I had bad weather which is unusual for Malta, so I must go back too 😀
What a wonderful cathedral. It was fascinating to learn of its history and to enjoy your photos of the incredibly ornate interior and marble floor. And to see the Caravaggio must have been wonderful. We would definitely love to visit.
I haven’t been in Malta yet, but looking at the pictures I would definitely add St John cathedral on the ‘must see in Valetta’ list!
These are great photos. I think since covid I could use the three clocks as time has become ever more difficult to keep track of. Never been to Malta but I will have to add it to the growing bucket list.
Ha ha, three clocks is pretty confusing to me 🙂
When I went to Malta I only saw the outside as 15€ is a pretty high price point. It does look beautiful from the inside though…
It’s pretty steep indeed, but I imagine the maintenance costs are pretty high too. It was definitely worth it.
I’m heading to Malta in two weeks. St John’s Cathedral is firmly on the list now. Thanks for the preview!
It would be a shame to miss it, Steven!
I love visiting cathedrals. Love the history and architecture. Adding St. John Cathedral to my Malta itinerary.
This is a gorgeous cathedral from the pictures you included. I just looked up a picture of the exterior, and you’re right, I imagine a lot of people walk right by not realizing what the inside is like! I never knew co-cathedrals were a thing (but cathedrals like this aren’t really a thing in America so maybe it’s more common than I realize).
I walked by the cathedral a couple of times without realizing what it was, then I used Google maps to locate it 🤣