Via Appia Antica Rome – How to Spend a Perfect Sunday in Rome

This is my suggestion for a perfect Sunday in Rome, away from the hustle and bustle. You’ve already seen the Colosseum and the Vatican, heard the whistles at the Spanish Steps, threw a coin in the Trevi Fountain, and you need a break from the crowds and queues? Then, head to Via Appia Antica – the ancient highway from Rome to Brindisi.

Sunday in Rome

These are two of my favorite places in Rome:

• Via Appia Antica at the outskirts of Rome
• The hippodrome (Ippodromo delle Capanelle)

Via Appia Antica

A bit of history

Via Appia was the first modern road in the world. It was built 2300 years ago! I am always impressed with the engineering capabilities of the ancient Romans. The construction began at the order of censor Appius Claudius Caecus in 312 BC. The road had a foundation of heavy stone blocks cemented with lime mortar, a layer of gravel, and lava stone pavement. The stones were carefully fitted together and made for a smooth traveling surface. Also, the 6-meter wide road was slightly inclined to the edges, facilitating good drainage.

At first, the road went to Capua, about 200 km to the south. It was later extended another 370 km to the port of Brindisi, on the eastern coast of the peninsula.

There are still parts of the original road, especially close to Rome. It’s now called Via Appia Antica as opposed to Via Appia Nuova. Try to make it your Sunday in Rome because there are traffic restrictions, so you will enjoy the walk.

How to get there

From the city center, take the A-line metro towards Anagnina. Get off at Colli Albani stop. At the center of the square, you will see the bus station. Take bus 660 to Cecilia Metella. Click on the link to learn all you need to know about transport in Rome.

Cecilia Metella is the last stop, right by Via Appia Antica. You will find a cafe there, to have a snack or rent a bike.

What to expect

You can explore Via Appia Antica on foot, cycling, or even on a horse. I prefer walking at my own pace, stopping for photos, and exploring around. Also, I think cycling must be difficult in some parts of the road, due to the irregular stones. Wear comfortable shoes for the walk here and take some water with you.

From the cafe, head left on Via Appia Antica, away from Rome. After a few hundred meters, the scenery will start resembling the Roman countryside. On both sides of the road, you will encounter remains of tombs, towers, temples. Close to the Appia Antica Cafe, there is also the Capo di Bove Complex, where you’ll find a museum and the excavation of the baths of a Roman estate. The site is free to visit. You will also find here restrooms and vending machines.

Going on, you will step on the original Via Appia, between the umbrella pine trees and cypresses. Walk for about 2km to take in the scenery.

There are also many attractions to visit on your way back to Rome. Catacombs, Cecilia Metella’s tomb, The Circus of Maxentius, and the Mausoleum of Maxentius are all waiting to be discovered.

Back to Rome on Via Appia Antica

To walk back to the city, expect about 6 km to the Colosseum with a difficult part due to traffic, close to the city. You will also pass by the small Quo Vadis Domine church where legend says Peter had a vision of Christ as he was leaving the city. You will enter the city through Porta San Sebastiano, which also hosts a museum (Museo delle Mura). From here, it’s a pleasant walk by the Terme di Caracalla to the Circus Maximus and the Palatine Hill.

If the walk to the city is not what you’re in for, I suggest the racecourse for your next Sunday in Rome.

The racecourse: Ippodromo delle Capannelle

About the racecourse

The venue is located just before Ciampino Airport and next to Aqueducts Park. It has trot and gallops tracks of herb and sand, 4 bleachers, a bar and a restaurant, and, of course, the betting agency.

Though I know nothing about horses and I’m not a gambler, I found the racecourse a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon. It’s not as popular as I expected, but people of all ages at the hippodrome, admiring the horses, placing bets, or spending some fun time with the children.

Getting there (and back)

Transport in Rome is not as smooth as you might hope for Italy’s capital. The metro system covers some of the city but not enough for such a large city. The buses have the weirdest routes and all kinds of detours. Check out my quick guide to find your way around Rome’s public transport system.

To get to the racecourse from Via Appia Antica, take bus 118 from any stop on Appia Antica, towards Appia/Villa dei Quintili. You can check the route here.

The easiest option to get back to the city center is to take bus no 520 and get off at the metro junction in Cinecitta. At least the metro keeps moving forward, unlike the alternative, bus 664, for example.

What to expect

On weekends the entrance fee is 3€, on weekdays the access is free. There are races 5 days a week, less in winter. You can check the races schedule here.

You’ll find program flyers in a few places, take one and sit outside while they present the horses before each race. Pick a favorite and keep your fingers crossed when the race begins.

You can place a bet in the agency below the stands. This part was somewhat confusing for me. There are a lot of monitors displaying races from other venues, rankings, and odds. Also, there are a lot of men who seem to know what they are doing there. The minimum bet is 2€.

I also have a hint from my extensive-2 races-experience: the horse that makes the most trouble before the race will probably win it. Watch the horses carefully while their handlers walk with them in the presentation area. Remember the number of the one hardest to keep in line.

Whether you placed a bet or just chose a favorite, take a seat in the bleachers. Or, you can stand on the grass next to the tracks when the race is about to begin. You won’t see the horses as they start the race. The setting allows you to see the finish of each race. Still, there is a large monitor to watch the race from the start.

That’s about it, I hope you’ll have a great Sunday in Rome, as I did. I’ll be back soon with other less usual things to do in Rome.

Disclosure

Some of the above may be affiliate links. This means that if you click on a link and make a purchase, I earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. However, I only recommend companies, activities, or products that I use myself. Thank you for your support in keeping my blog live!