Top things I want to do & see in Napoli (Naples)

There is Italy, and then there is Naples or Napoli. Also Sicily, but that is another story. This is a list of things I want to see and do in Naples.

“Vedi Napoli e poi muori!”

Goethe said it: see Naples and then die. He meant that you don’t need to go anywhere else after seeing Naples, which has a bit of everything and is utterly alive.

While the bay is beautiful, the city itself seems to be decaying at this point. Corruption and poverty left their mark on Naples. Among the many problems of the city: the endless garbage issue, the crazy traffic, thieves of all kinds.

On a more positive note, Naples has many things to offer visitors. Its position attracted many conquerors throughout the centuries. They enriched the local dialect, architecture, culture, and food. But the true experience is the Neapolitan life. The beauty of the place made Neapolitans arrogant. The permanent danger of the Vesuvius made them live passionately. The tourist invasion made them even rude. The Italians from the northern regions look at them with distrust, and they respond the same way. That being said, the more time you spend in Naples, the place grows on you, and you start to appreciate it, miss it, love it.

Top things to do and see in Naples

If you only have a short time in Naples, it will be difficult to prioritize things to do. I spent my days mostly visiting the attractions around the city, so I’d rather make a list of the things I want to do and see but haven’t done (yet!) in Naples.

Naples things to do&see

Diving or snorkeling in the Underwater Park of Baiae

The Park of Baiae was part of an ancient Roman city that submersed about 6 meters under sea level, because of its location in a volcanic area called Campi Flegrei. The location is about 20 km west of Naples in the city of Pozzuoli. The 35 euro admission fee includes the tank, weight, boat transfer, and guide to the submerged Nymphaeum of Emperor Claudius dive site.

As an alternative, kayaking in the bay seems a good idea.

The Archaeology Museum

The Archaeology Museum in Naples exhibits many of the finds in both Pompeii and Herculaneum. Go there, especially if you don’t have time to see either of the sites. A visit to the archaeology museum will give you an idea of the rich culture of both Greek and especially Roman life.

The Museum is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., and the admission fee is 15 euros.

Hands-on cooking class

I think this would be a worthwhile experience. Neapolitan cuisine stands out among the rest of the food of the Italian peninsula. It is a ‘cucina povera’ – a cuisine for the poor, enriched with a lot of love for life and food. I’ll write a separate post on this subject, the amazing local food in Campania.

Underground Naples

I’m a bit claustrophobic, but what I read about the city’s underground tours made me decide to put it on the to-do list. It’s open every day from 10:00 a.m. to 6 p.m. The tour takes you 40 meters underground and 2400 years back in time. More details here: Underground Naples

A view from above

Sant’Elmo Castle is a medieval fortress that you can reach on the funicular from Piazza Montesanto. It is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., and the entrance fee is 5 euros. If you’re not in the mood to visit another castle, the view is enough to climb up there.

You will see Spaccanapoli from above. Spaccanapoli is the straight street that divides old Napoli into two parts. From Sant’Elmo you will also have a full view of Naples Bay with Mt. Vesuvius in the background.

Where to stay in Naples

While looking for accommodation, avoid the train station area. It isn’t a pleasant one, especially at night.

I enjoyed staying in the Lungomare area, a long stretch along the bay with many hotels, restaurants, and cafes. It is a much safer place, where you can go out for a walk at night or for a run in the morning.

Where to eat

This is an easy one: anywhere. Try the pizza at its birthplace, the spaghetti alla puttanesca, la pizza fritta (fried pizza), or the acqua pazza dish (crazy water). Click to find out all about the best food in Campania.

In the old center, there are a lot of amazing restaurants around Via dei Tribunali. In the evening you will see queues forming in front of many of them so try to have an early dinner.

Also, around Castel dell’Ovo, there is another area full of restaurants.

My image of Naples

Wandering through the streets between Porta Nolana and Santa Maria del Carmine Church, I came across a kind of a soccer concrete field. It was a courtyard directly under old apartment buildings, full of loud kids playing. That’s the first image that comes through my mind when I think of Naples. I can just imagine mothers calling out for their kids to come inside directly from their windows overlooking the game.

Christmas Market

If you visit Naples before Christmas, you will find a few streets in the Old City Center transformed into a large Christmas Market. Neapolitans have a special appreciation for Nativity Scenes and dioramas. Besides these, you will find an endless flow of souvenirs, spices, and local produce. The pepperoncino is a favorite local symbol. It is said to bring fortune to the person who wears it as a key lock or jewelry. It is a very appropriate symbol of Naples as it is beautiful, colorful, and hot.

Useful tips

Beware of pickpockets in crowded areas. Don’t keep all your money and cards in one place.

Don’t expect cars to stop for you to cross a street, even on a marked crosswalk. They will probably (not definitely) stop for a red light, but don’t trust it too much because motor scooters probably won’t.

These were the things I want to do and see in Napoli (I liked the rhyme).

Check out my day trip suggestions to Mount Vesuvius, Ercolano, and Pompeii for a chance to get an idea of life during the Roman Empire.